How to build airing cupboard shelving

• Bradawl
• Chop saw
• Circular saw
• Combination square
• Cordless drill
• Countersink drill bit
• Digital pipe and cable detector
• Dust mask
• Flat drill bit (25mm)
• Palm sander
• Pencil
• Protective goggles
• Sandpaper
• Screwdriver
• Spirit level
• Tape measure
• Wood drill bit (6mm)
• Work gloves

• Wood screws (4 x 30mm)
• Self-piloting plasterboard wall plugs (x4)
• Double ball catches (x2)
• Mitre adhesive and activator
• Light dowel moulding (x5 at 25 x 2400mm)
• Whitewood PSE timber (x1 at 18 X 144 X 1800mm)
• Whitewood PSE timber offcut spacer (44 X 44 X 1800mm)

As you will be securing the heavy timber brackets directly to the walls of your airing cupboard, it is important that you check the walls for wires, cables, and pipes first.

Slowly run a digital detector across the surface of the wall where you intend to place your brackets. The detector will alert you if it senses metal pipes or live electrical wires. Use a pencil to mark these danger zones so you can avoid them.

Measure the total depth and the width of your airing cupboard with your tape measure. Decide on exactly how deep you would like your shelves to be, then make a note of this dimension.

You may find that the cupboard isn't quite square. It can even taper in width from the front door to the back wall of your cupboard. Take measurements at the front and the back to ensure you have the most accurate dimensions before you start cutting your timber dowel.

Using your tape measure, measure in exactly 100mm from each end of your timber and mark it.

Using your combination square, scribe a straight, bold line across the entire width of the timber. Anything inside this 100mm line is for wastage. It will be used for clamping and screwing the timber securely to your workbench while you drill.

We recommend using a pencil to make large crosshatch markings through these wastage zones as a constant visual reminder not to drill or cut your final bracket holes there.

Taking the shelf depth dimensions you noted from your airing cupboard earlier, measure from the 100mm wastage line towards the centre of the timber length and mark the first measurement.

Scribe the marked measurement clearly across the width with your combination square. Repeat this exact process from the other end of the bracket, marking as before from the opposing 100mm line.

The 100mm lines and your new marked lines will be cut through later on to create the separate brackets.

Depending on the depth of your cupboard space and the total length of your timber, you may find that you are left with a large wastage zone in the very centre of your timber. You can crosshatch this middle section too. You’ll be able to drill right through this central zone at a later stage, safely securing the middle of the timber to your workbench.

We chose to use double ball catches to secure our top and bottom brackets together, but there are many types of catch and lock that you can use for this project. These metal catches will be screwed to a small locking block that will overlap at either end of the main bracket.

Starting at one end of your prepared timber, place your metal ball catch approximately 20mm inside the first 100mm wastage line, then use your tape measure to mark 20mm away from the outside edge of the ball catch. Scribe a straight line across the width of the timber with your combination square.

Repeat this process at the other end of your first marked length, staying within the internal line. Now either end of your first marked bracket length has a dedicated locking block zone for the ball catch to sit in.

Now repeat both of these markings at the other end of your timber, staying within the second marked length. You should now have a total of four locking block zones clearly marked out on your wood.

Starting from one end of your timber, line up your flat wood bit so that one side of the spur is resting against the first locking block zone.

Make a small pencil mark right at the centre of the tip on the timber, then use your combination square to scribe a straight line through that mark. This will be the location of your first dowel hole.

Now, take your 44 x 44mm spacer block. Line up the edge of the block with your first hole location line. Use your combination square to check the edge of the timber is straight, then scribe a line across the full width of your timber.

Move your spacer block along the wood, aligning it carefully with the previous line and scribing the next one. Keep repeating this process until you reach the 

locking block zone at the end of the first bracket.

Repeat this for the second bracket, starting at the opposite end of your timber and working your way towards the middle again. We were able to mark ten lines for the notches on our timber, but this number may be different depending on your timber length and cupboard dimensions.

Once all of the horizontal notch lines are marked, use your tape measure to find the exact centre of the width of your timber.

Mark this central point in several places along the entire length. Then, using a long straight edge, such as a spirit level or a metal ruler, scribe a single continuous line through all the central markings.

Depending on how you choose to mark the holes on your timber, you may find that the first and last notch hole on each bracket has slightly different measurements from the outer edge of the timber. To ensure that the wooden dowels are symmetrical when mounted on the wall, write the word 'front' in the first catch location at either end of your length.

As the timber now has multiple horizontal and vertical scribed lines covering it, we recommend drawing a small, clear circle to indicate where each drilling hole will be. These drill points are exactly where the ten equally spaced scribed lines on each bracket intersect with the long central marking line.

As the timber now has multiple horizontal and vertical scribed lines covering it, we recommend drawing a small, clear circle to indicate where each drilling hole will be. These drill points are exactly where the ten equally spaced scribed lines on each bracket intersect with the long central marking line.

Before you pick up a power tool, inspect the cables and blades to ensure they are in good working condition. If any of the elements look frayed or need to be replaced, make sure this is done before construction begins.

For safety, we recommend wearing protective goggles, a dust mask and heavy-duty gloves when using a chop saw or drill.

Now the timber is fully marked and prepared, take an offcut length or a scrap sheet of timber that you don't mind damaging and place it underneath your main piece, directly on top of your workbench.

Clamp the scrap offcut securely to your workbench, then secure your main timber by driving screws straight through the excess crosshatched wastage zones you marked earlier. Put screws in the centre wastage zone and at either end of your length. Ensure the heads of the screws are sunken well into the timber so they don't catch on your tools.

Take your bradawl and firmly push it to make a small indent right into the centre of each of your circled drilling holes. These starting holes will help to align your drill bit and prevent it from wandering across the smooth wood.

Taking your 90-degree drill jig and a 6mm drill bit, start at one end of your timber and place the tip of your drill bit into the first bradawl hole. Butt the jig firmly up against your drill bit to ensure it stays perfectly vertical, then drill down to create the first pilot hole. Repeat this along the entire length of timber to pilot hole every single marking. Once done, give the timber and the workbench a really good brush down to clear away the sawdust.

Repeat this action along your timber length until all of the large holes are created. Give your timber and workbench another thorough brush down.

Now that the large dowel holes are fully completed, you can cut the timber length directly in half to create the two interlocking sets of brackets.

Ensuring your circular saw is completely unplugged from the mains, adjust the depth of the blade to just over 20mm and tighten the mechanism to secure it. This means you’ll cut through the main bracket timber cleanly, but you don’t damage your actual workbench or cut through the scrap offcut length too deeply.

Double check this measurement using your combination square or tape measure, measuring from the flat edge of the shoe to the bottom of the blade.

Now insert the straight track rail into your circular saw. Using the half-width central measurement that you scribed along your timber length earlier, adjust and tighten the track rail so it matches exactly.

With the track rail running smoothly along the straight outer edge of your timber, start at one end and slowly, carefully cut along the entire length. This job will generate a lot of fine dust, so we strongly recommend wearing your protective goggles and face mask.

It’s worth noting that due to the physical thickness of the circular saw blade itself, the cut circular holes will vary in size by approximately 2mm. We recommend making a small pencil mark on the back of the bracket to clearly indicate which piece has the slightly larger holes. Ideally, you want to use this piece as the bottom bracket, as the rounded dowels will drop in and fit much more snugly in the slightly larger notch.

Once you have safely cut your long timber length in half, use your electric palm sander to give the flat sides of the timber a good once over. Sanding smooths away any snagged edges, rough frays, and pencil marks.

Remove the securing screws from the wastage zones at either end and give your workbench a final brush and clear down.

Take your two new lengths to your chop saw. Clamp the timber firmly in place, then cut clean through on the inside of the 100mm excess wastage zone lines.

Repeat this for the second length. You are now left with two complete sets of brackets. Use your electric palm sander to smooth over the freshly cut ends.

To easily sand the curved inside of the holes which have now become open notches, you can make a bespoke, rounded sanding block. Simply wrap a piece of coarse sandpaper tightly around a small offcut piece of dowel. Run this rounded sanding block back and forth through each notch to tidy the timber up and remove any sharp snags.

For a neat finish, it is preferable for the fixing holes to be at an equal distance from each end of the timber bracket. However, you may have to play around with your fixing hole locations to safely avoid electrical wiring and metal pipework hidden in the cavity.

Extend your tape measure to the exact length of the bracket you are working on and offer it up to the wall. Working carefully around any pencil markings you just made, decide roughly where the bracket will be mounted and note the dimensions.

Remember that there will be a small locking block attached at either end of your bracket, so the fixing marks for the screws will need to be further in on the length.

Lay your brackets side by side flat on your workbench, making sure that they’re perfectly aligned to one another. Starting at one end, measure and mark your ideal fixing hole locations. Use your combination square to scribe a straight line across both brackets at the same time to ensure they match. Repeat this at the other end of your timber, adjusting the marking accordingly depending on your specific wall space.

Line up your metal ruler or combination square with the edge of the timber and use the thickness of the metal to make a small cross through the scribed line for your hole locations.

Then use a bradawl to make a small, deep hole right into the centre of each of your marked hole locations. Again, these indentations will help to align your drill and prevent the bit from jumping.

Taking your 90-degree drill jig and a 6mm drill bit, start at one end of your timber and place your drill bit in the first bradawl hole. Butt the jig up against your drill bit, then carefully pilot down through each marked hole.

For a neat finish, replace your standard drill bit with a countersink bit. Gently bevel the top edge of each hole.

Run your electric palm sander over the surface again lightly to remove any frayed edges and remaining pencil markings.

You can now cut your long timber dowels to size. Using your airing cupboard width dimensions from earlier, mark your first piece of dowel. Be sure to account for any length adjustments where your cupboard space is tapered or uneven at the back.

Using your chop saw or a universal hand saw, cut each dowel length to size. If your dowel measurements are all identical lengths, you can easily make a chop saw stock block for highly accurate and repetitive cuts.

For a smooth, splinter-free finish, go over the dowels with your electric sander or some coarse sandpaper.

Next, you need to cut the small locking blocks that sit at either end of the brackets. This block will affix tightly to the top bracket, slightly overlapping the bottom bracket with the metal locking mechanism.

Taking your scrap offcut pieces, measure and mark your timber to create four identical rectangular blocks. Then cut each to size with your chop saw. The exact measurement of these blocks will depend on the timber length and the specific catch mechanism you decide to buy.

Using your mitre adhesive, apply a thin, even layer of glue to the back of the stop block. Then spray the liquid activator directly onto the locking block zone you marked at the end of the top bracket earlier. Hold the block firmly in place so the overlapping end is on the same side as the open notches. Then give the block another quick spray with the activator to secure it instantly. Repeat this at the other end of the bracket and on your second top bracket too.

Taking your metal ball catch mechanism and a screwdriver, carefully screw the catches directly to the centre of each overlapping end of the wooden locking blocks.

Once you’ve decided on the height that your brackets will be mounted at, and your walls are sufficiently marked to avoid pipework areas, offer up your first bottom bracket into position. Remember to double check that the brackets are the correct way around so both front ends are facing the same way.

Use a spirit level resting on top of the bracket to check that it’s straight, then clearly scribe a pencil line underneath the bracket onto the wall.

Holding your bracket firmly in place against the line, use your bradawl to push through each of the fixing holes and make a physical mark on the wall behind it.

Depending on the kind of walls you have in your airing cupboard, you may need to purchase specialist wall plugs for safely mounting your brackets. We used specialist self-piloting plasterboard wall plugs. 

Using your cordless drill, screw each self-piloting wall plug securely into place on the wall markings.

Measure the distance from the floor up to your scribed bracket line. Then repeat this entire mounting process on the opposite wall with your second bottom bracket.

Twist the fixing screws by hand through the countersunk holes of your first bracket, then offer it up to the wall plugs.

Ensuring it’s perfectly aligned to the scribed mark, use your drill to tightly drive the screws, securing the bracket firmly into place. Repeat this step to fix your second bottom bracket in place on the parallel wall.

Now that your bottom brackets are totally secure, you can place your wooden dowels into the open notches and decide on your preferred spacing configuration.

Place your first top bracket directly on top of the lower bracket and the resting dowel lengths. Take a pencil and make a couple of small marks onto the lower bracket to indicate where the centre and bottom of each metal catch sits. This is to ensure the metal counterpart catch is secured perfectly in place.

Ensure that your dowels are firmly in place for this step, otherwise the top bracket will sit too low and the counterpart catch won't be aligned properly. Repeat this marking process for each of the locking blocks.

Line up your catch counterpart with the scribed line and central mark on the bottom bracket, then screw each one tightly into place. 

Repeat for each of the locking blocks, then replace the top brackets, firmly slotting the ball catches down into the locks with a satisfying click.

And that’s it, your airing cupboard rail shelving is complete.

Yes, you can. But it is vital that your shelving does not prevent access for routine servicing. You must also allow for good clearance and safe ventilation between your hot water tank or boiler and your storage area. We always recommend seeking professional advice to ensure your space meets UK regulations.

We recommend using whitewood planed square edge (PSE) timber for the wall brackets, and light hardwood dowel for the shelf rails. Whitewood PSE is smooth, strong, and very easy to work with when cutting notches and drilling pilot holes.

Always use a digital pipe and cable detector before making any holes. Slowly scan the device over the wall where you intend to mount your brackets. It will alert you to any hidden water pipes or live electrical cables, allowing you to mark them with a pencil and easily avoid them.