How to Lay a Garden Path

Before digging, always use a CAT tool to make sure there are no hidden pipes or cables beneath the surface.

Mark the position of the path using pegs and string and then dig out the turf to the depth of your chosen edging. The top of the edging should sit exactly at ground level.

As a general rule, gravel paths need an overall depth of 100mm, whereas block paving and paving slabs will need a base layer of up to 150mm, plus the depth of the paving you are using. In damp soil you may need a base layer of up to 200mm.

Once you have dug your trench, edge it with treated timber boards which have been cut to measure.

Starting at each end of the path, drive in treated pegs at intervals of no more than 1.2m and fix them to the edging boards with external grade screws. Use a spirit level to check that your edging remains level as you go.

Roll out weed control landscape fabric and cut it to size. Allow for a 50mm overlap on each edge and 150mm at each end.

Add a 50mm layer of MOT Type 1 sub-base or similar hardcore mix and rake it over.

Add your gravel to a depth of approximately 25mm and rake the surface level. You should aim to leave a 25mm drop from the gravel to the top of the edging so the stones don't spill out.

Add a 50mm layer of MOT Type 1 hardcore, rake it, and compact it. Repeat with a second 50mm layer of hardcore mix.

Add the Slablayer to a depth of 25mm and level it with a rake. Add water as per the manufacturer's instructions, then rake it again so the surface is totally level.

Dampen the underside of your first slab, then place it into position. 

Bed the slab in with a rubber mallet and check that it's square. Repeat this for the second slab. These first two slabs act as your guide for the rest of the path.

Use this process to lay the whole path. Try to maintain a consistent gap of 100mm between each slab by using spacers or a wooden offcut.

Allow the Slablayer to dry completely. If rain is forecast, cover it with plastic sheeting. Then, fill in the joints with a damp sand mix. Apply with a trowel and brush away any excess.

Measure your trench for the block paving. Allow for 100mm of sub-base, 50mm of sand, plus the depth of your chosen paving. Remember that when your path is compacted the bricks will sit about 15mm into the sand base.

Add a 50mm layer of MOT Type 1 hardcore and compact it. Add another 50mm layer and compact it again.

Next add a layer of sharp sand and lightly dampen it using a hose or watering can. Compact the sand with a suitable offcut of timber to a depth of 50mm.

Lay your block paving bricks and gently tap them into place with a rubber mallet. Use a spirit level constantly to check that your bricks remain perfectly flat as you go along.

Cover the bricks with a layer of kiln-dried sand and sweep it deep into the joints. Compact the path using your wacker plate, then re-apply the sand to fill in any remaining gaps.

A gravel path is the easiest way to build a path without using any concrete or wet mortar mixes. Simply line your dug trench with landscaping fabric, compact a hardcore sub-base, and pour your decorative gravel directly on top.

You should never lay paving slabs directly onto soft topsoil. You must dig a trench roughly 150mm deep and create a compacted hardcore sub-base first. This gives the slabs a solid foundation and stops them from sinking into the mud over time.

The biggest mistake is not digging a deep enough foundation for your hardcore sub-base. Without this, your new paving slabs or block paving bricks are likely to sink into the soft topsoil or mud over time. Skipping the compaction stage with a tamper or wacker plate is another frequent error. And always remember to create a gentle slope so rainwater drains safely away.

A gravel path is a fantastic, low-maintenance option that naturally suppresses weeds when paired with landscape fabric. Large format paving slabs are also incredibly easy to look after because they create fewer joints for moss to grow in. Small block pavers look brilliant, but the increased number of sand-filled joints often requires a little more regular sweeping.

If your garden doesn't get much sun, moss and algae can quickly build up on natural stone. Porcelain paving slabs are an excellent choice for damp, shady areas. Because porcelain is completely non-porous, it naturally resists moisture and algae growth. This keeps your pathway looking clean and drastically reduces the amount of maintenance you need to do.

Creating a curved path is a brilliant way to match the natural contours of your garden. Instead of using a string line, simply lay a garden hose on the grass to easily plan your winding shape. Dig your trench as normal and lay your heavy-duty landscape fabric. Then, arrange your stepping stones directly onto a compacted sub-base before filling the surrounding gaps with your chosen gravel.